Tested by Morgan Blake
Klipper & Input Shaping (2025): Speed Without the Wobble
Updated October 2025
Turn your FDM printer into a speedster. Install Klipper, tune input shaping and pressure advance, and unlock clean, fast prints.
What you’ll get: a practical overview of hardware options, how to flash Klipper, run resonance tuning, set input_shaper, calibrate pressure_advance, and choose safe speed/accel profiles. We’ve added first-hand style notes gathered from community testing to help you avoid common traps.
Prerequisites
- A compatible printer (Cartesian or CoreXY preferred) with stable mechanics: tight belts and a square frame.
- One of: Raspberry Pi or similar SBC, an integrated Klipper controller, or a vendor tablet like a Sonic Pad.
- Basic network access and a microSD card for firmware.
New to printing? Start with our 3D Printing for Beginners FAQ Hub and the beginner workflow guide so fundamentals are solid before you change firmware.
Choose Your Path
There are three reliable ways to get a Klipper stack running. Pick based on how much you want to customize versus how fast you want to start.
| Path | Pros | Watch-outs | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| DIY SBC + Mainsail/Fluidd | Most flexible; easiest to update; big community support. | More initial steps; must match MCU options when compiling. | Tinkerers who want full control. |
| Vendor Klipper Tablets | Wizard-like setup; bundled macros; quick results. | Less flexible; updates tied to vendor. | Beginners or speed-focused users. |
| Printers with built-in shapers | Works out of box; shaper baselines per model. | Factory values aren’t tailored to your unit’s frame and belts. | Anyone who wants improvements without full firmware swap. |
Before flashing, it helps to calibrate the basics. See bed leveling, flow rate, and PID tuning. Dialing in stock settings first makes Klipper tuning faster.
Install & Flash
- Write MainsailOS or FluiddPi to the SD card. Boot the SBC and open the web UI.
- Use the Klipper firmware builder. Select your MCU (for example STM32F103 or RP2040), clock, and bootloader.
- Flash the generated
klipper.binto your printer board via SD or DFU. Reboot the board. - Upload a matching
printer.cfg. Start with a community template for your model. Verify kinematics, steps per mm, endstops, thermistors, and bed size.
Tip: Keep a copy of your stock firmware and config so you can revert if needed. For UI docs see Mainsail and Fluidd. Learn more in Klipper’s official documentation.
Resonance Tuning (Input Shaping)
Goal: find your printer’s vibration frequencies and set an input shaper to cancel ringing and ghosting. When resonance is handled, corners stop echoing and small text looks crisp at speed.
With an accelerometer
- Mount a supported sensor to the toolhead. ADXL345 is common.
- Wire SPI to your MCU or SBC. Enable the
[adxl345]section inprinter.cfg. - Run the resonance test for X and Y from the web UI. Review the graphs.
- Set
[input_shaper]with the recommended shaper and frequencies.
No accelerometer
- Print a ringing test at moderate speed and acceleration.
- Use built-in auto-tune if available. Otherwise try shaper types and frequencies until ringing reduces while details remain crisp.
; example only, values differ per printer
[input_shaper]
shaper_type_x = mzv
shaper_freq_x = 52.0
shaper_type_y = eiq
shaper_freq_y = 40.0
Pressure Advance (similar to Linear Advance)
Pressure Advance compensates for extrusion lag during speed changes. This sharpens corners and stabilizes wall thickness. Expect different values for PLA, PETG, and TPU.
- Print a PA test line or tower from your UI macros.
- Pick the value where corner bulging disappears and walls are uniform.
[extruder]
pressure_advance = 0.045 ; typical range 0.02 to 0.12 varies by hotend, extruder, and filament
Swapping materials? Re-check PA and temperatures. For help choosing filaments and starter profiles, see our PLA vs PETG vs TPU guide. If you’re still chasing corner quality, verify that your E-steps and flow calibration are correct in the calibration guide.
Safe Speed & Acceleration Targets
- Quality first: 60 to 90 mm/s, accel 3000 to 5000 mm/s²
- Balanced parts: 120 to 180 mm/s, accel 6000 to 10000 mm/s²
- Speed runs on tuned CoreXY: 200 to 300+ mm/s, accel 10000 to 20000+ mm/s²
Tips: Push speeds only after input shaper and PA are tuned. Check hotend flow limits, bed adhesion, and part cooling. If you want hardware that stays reliable at higher speeds, see upgrades that actually matter or our 2025 best 3D printers and best under $500.
Do Not Ignore Mechanics
- Set correct belt tension and replace worn idlers.
- Square the gantry and lubricate rails or rollers appropriately.
- Verify stepper current on TMC drivers and keep motors within safe temperatures.
Mechanical issues amplify artifacts. A perfectly tuned shaper can’t fix a wobbly Z frame. If your prints improve after the first layer then degrade, re-check eccentric nuts and rail preload.
Common Pitfalls
- Over-shaping. Too aggressive can blur details. Back off frequency or change type.
- Under-extrusion at speed. Hotend cannot melt fast enough. Raise temperature, use a larger nozzle, or lower flow.
- Layer shifts. Belt slop or low stepper current. Re-tension and check driver settings.
- Inconsistent resonance scans. Check that the accelerometer is firmly mounted and cables aren’t vibrating against the toolhead.
FAQ
Do I need an accelerometer for input shaping?
No. It gives faster and more precise results, but you can tune from ringing tests and still see big gains.
Is Klipper safe for beginners?
Yes if you follow the steps and keep a backup of stock firmware. It is a good next step after basic calibration.
Why do my corners still bulge after setting an input shaper?
That is extrusion lag. Calibrate Pressure Advance. Check that your hotend can keep up and that cooling is adequate.
What should I upgrade first for higher speed?
Rigid frame, smooth motion, good cooling, and a hotend with higher flow. See our upgrades guide.
Resources & Next Steps
Keep learning and cross-check your settings:
