So, you’ve seen all the fuss about 3D printing and you’re ready to make your first part—maybe a Raspberry Pi case, a camera mount, or a cosplay prop. This guide updates the essentials for today’s printers: auto bed leveling, PEI plates, modern slicers (PrusaSlicer/OrcaSlicer/Cura), safe resin workflows, and performance upgrades like Klipper + input shaping. If you’re troubleshooting, start with our common 3D printing mistakes.

3D Printing Types (What’s Relevant in 2025)

All 3D printers add material layer-by-layer, but their methods and materials differ:

FDM/FFF (Filament)

The most common home printers. A heated nozzle extrudes plastic (PLA, PETG, ASA, TPU, Nylon, etc.) onto a build plate. Today’s popular improvements include auto bed leveling (inductive/BLTouch/CR-Touch), spring-steel PEI plates, direct-drive extruders, and input shaping/pressure advance via Klipper for faster, cleaner prints.

MSLA / SLA / DLP (Resin)

Photopolymer resin cured by UV light (LCD mask or projector) produces ultra-fine detail (miniatures, dental, jewelry). Requires ventilation/PPE, wash & cure steps, and careful disposal. Great surface finish; parts can be brittle without tough/flexible resins.

SLS (Powder)

Lasers fuse nylon powder, creating strong parts with no supports. Still prosumer/industrial (e.g., benchtop units), but worth knowing for functional prototypes.

Note: LOM (laminated paper) is a legacy/rare method and not typical for consumers.

Quick-Start Setup (FDM/FFF)

1) Unbox & Assemble

• Follow the manual for frame squareness; tighten belts and V-wheels (no wobble, no binding).
• Enable thermal runaway protection in firmware (stock printers usually have it—verify in release notes).

2) Prep the Build Plate

• PEI spring-steel plates dominate now. Clean with 90%+ IPA when cool. For PLA, print directly on PEI. For PETG, apply a thin glue-stick film as a release layer to avoid bonding too strongly to PEI.
• Glass works, but PEI is easier for first-layer adhesion and part removal.

3) Bed Leveling & Z-Offset

• If you have auto bed leveling (ABL), run the probe routine, then set a precise Z-offset so the first line is slightly squished but not scraping.
• No ABL? Level manually with a sheet of paper at each corner and center, then recheck Z-offset with a small first-layer test.

4) Load Filament

• Start with PLA (or PLA+); it’s forgiving. Dry spools perform better—store with desiccant; for nylons/TPU/CF, consider a filament dryer box.
• Cut a clean 45° tip, heat the nozzle (e.g., 210 °C for PLA), release the extruder lever, push until filament extrudes smoothly.

5) Slicer & Profiles

• Use PrusaSlicer, OrcaSlicer, or UltiMaker Cura. Prefer 3MF over STL to save settings and per-object modifiers.
• Start with a verified printer profile. Common baselines:
  • PLA: 200–215 °C nozzle, 55–65 °C bed, 0.2 mm layers, 40–60 mm/s.
  • PETG: 235–250 °C nozzle, 70–85 °C bed, slower first layer; use glue on PEI.
  • ASA/ABS (enclosure): 240–260 °C nozzle, 90–110 °C bed; avoid drafts.
• Try tree supports and ironing (for top surfaces) if your slicer supports them.

6) First-Layer Calibration

• Run a first-layer test. Adjust Z-offset live until the line is continuous, slightly flattened, with no gaps or ridges.

7) (Optional) Speed & Quality Upgrades

• Klipper firmware with input shaping + pressure advance can dramatically increase speed while preserving quality. Many newer printers ship with similar features built-in.
• All-metal hotend (e.g., E3D Revo, Micro Swiss, Phaetus) and hardened nozzles for abrasive CF/glow filaments.

Resin (MSLA) Essentials

• Use nitrile gloves, eye protection, and good ventilation/air filtration.
• After printing, wash parts in IPA or resin-specific wash, then UV-cure to full strength.
• Dispose of resin and consumables per local regulations; cure waste resin before discarding.

Designing & Slicing Your First Model

You can design in beginner-friendly CAD like Tinkercad, or step up to Fusion 360 (Personal), Onshape, FreeCAD, or Blender. Not designing today? Grab models from Printables or Thingiverse and learn by printing.

Keep These Constraints in Mind

• Orientation & supports: Rotate parts to minimize supports; flat faces down. Overhangs above ~45° usually need support (FDM).
• Layer strength: FDM is weakest between layers. Orient parts so expected forces aren’t prying along layer lines.
• Bed contact: Give the first layer enough surface area; add a brim for warpy materials.
• Tolerances: Leave 0.2–0.3 mm clearance for FDM press-fits (varies by printer/material).

Calibration Prints That Save Hours

• First-layer test, Calibration cube (dimensional accuracy), Temperature tower (find best temp), Retraction test (stringing control).

Materials at a Glance

• PLA/PLA+: Easiest; good detail; low warp; not heat-resistant.
• PETG: Tough, semi-flexible; more heat-resistant; can string; use glue on PEI.
• ASA/ABS: Stronger, heat-resistant; needs enclosure; emits fumes—ventilate.
• TPU: Flexible; print slow; direct-drive preferred.
• Nylon/PC/CF-blends: Very strong; dry thoroughly; hardened nozzle recommended.

Safety & Good Habits

• Thermal safety: Use firmware with thermal-runaway protection; keep printers on non-flammable surfaces; add a smoke detector nearby.
• Ventilation: Ventilate for ASA/ABS and all resin work. Consider enclosures/filters.
• Supervision: Don’t leave high-risk prints (especially resin or very long/first runs) completely unattended.

If Things Go Sideways

Head to 3D printing mistakes for fixes to warping, under-extrusion, stringing, and layer shifts. Also see our value picks: best 3D printers under $500 and business ideas for makers: profitable 3D printing projects.

Wrap-Up

Modern printers make great parts with less fuss: ABL for first layers, PEI for adhesion, slicer profiles to start, and optional Klipper/input-shaping for speed. Print a few calibration tests, learn your material, and iterate. Print on!