Why calibration matters

Every 3D printer—even from the same model line—has small mechanical differences. Without calibration, you’ll see:

• Warped first layers (bad bed level)
• Over- or under-extrusion (wrong flow rate)
• Dimensional inaccuracies (axis steps/mm)
• Temperature artifacts like stringing or blobs

Ten minutes of calibration saves hours of failed prints. Most of these steps are one-time unless you change nozzles or firmware.

Step 1 — Bed leveling & Z offset

The first layer is everything. Poor leveling means poor adhesion. There are two main methods:

Manual leveling

1. Preheat bed & nozzle (e.g., 60 °C / 200 °C).
2. Home all axes.
3. Disable steppers and move the nozzle to each corner.
4. Slide paper under nozzle—adjust bed screws until slight drag felt.
5. Repeat twice; corners interact.

Automatic (BLTouch, CR Touch, etc.)

1. Run mesh probing via your printer menu or G-code (G29).
2. Save mesh (M500).
3. Adjust Z offset: lower until the first layer slightly squishes; raise if elephant-footing.

Tip: A nozzle cleaning kit keeps debris from affecting height sensing.

Step 2 — Extruder steps/mm calibration

This determines how much filament your extruder pushes per motor rotation.

1. Mark 120 mm on filament above entry point.
2. Preheat nozzle (so filament flows easily).
3. Command printer to extrude 100 mm (G1 E100 F100).
4. Measure remaining filament distance. If not 20 mm left, calculate correction:

  new_steps = current_steps × (100 / actual_extruded)

Update via LCD or terminal (M92 E[new_steps] → M500).

Step 3 — Flow rate & extrusion multiplier

After steps/mm, fine-tune extrusion in your slicer.

1. Print a single-wall cube (0% infill, 1 perimeter).
2. Measure wall thickness with calipers.
3. Flow rate = (desired thickness / measured thickness) × 100%

Adjust flow or extrusion multiplier in your slicer (e.g., Cura, PrusaSlicer). Target ±0.02 mm accuracy.

Digital calipers on Amazon →

Step 4 — Temperature calibration (tower test)

Print a temperature tower—a vertical model that changes temperature every few layers (e.g., 220 °C → 190 °C).

• Use a tower file for your filament type (PLA, PETG, TPU).
• Inspect layer quality: pick the section with best bridging and no stringing.
• Set that as your default print temperature.

Free test towers on Thingiverse →

Step 5 — PID tuning (hotend & bed)

PID (Proportional-Integral-Derivative) control keeps temps stable. Run PID tuning after replacing a heater, thermistor, or nozzle.

1. Send M303 E0 S200 C10 for hotend (10 cycles at 200 °C).
2. Note the returned Kp, Ki, Kd values.
3. Save them: M301 P[Kp] I[Ki] D[Kd] → M500.
4. Repeat for bed: M303 E-1 S60 C8.

Stable temperature = consistent layers and color tone, especially for PETG and TPU filaments.

Step 6 — Verification prints

• Print a 20×20×20 calibration cube → measure XYZ accuracy.
• Print a single-wall “thin cube” → confirm extrusion width.
• Print a benchy → assess stringing, cooling, and overhangs.

If all dimensions are within ±0.1 mm and surfaces are smooth, your printer is tuned.

Flexible build plates make removing test prints easy.

FAQ

How often should I recalibrate?

Whenever you change nozzles, swap extruders, update firmware, or move your printer. Bed leveling should be checked weekly.

Why do my layers look uneven even after leveling?

Likely mechanical wobble (loose Z couplers) or inconsistent filament diameter. Check lead screws and clean the nozzle.

Is auto-leveling worth it?

Yes. Sensors like BLTouch save time and improve first-layer consistency—especially if your bed warps slightly with heat.